Paris and Montmartre! ooh la la!


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“There is but one Paris and however hard that living may be here, and if it becomes worse and harder even- the French air clears the brain and does a world of good.”   -Vincent  Van Gogh
There are times when one needs to find a place of solace to be quiet and still. Other times you may desire a more robust energy to quench your thirst for excitement. Whatever your wayward longings, Paris is the solution to satiate these wanton cravings. There is no other place like it in the world.
Replete with enigmatic charm, legendary culture and  an unabashed appreciation for the arts. Paris prides itself as a city with something to offer for anyone of vision and creativity. Even Van Gogh found himself planted here, seduced by the creative energy of the Parisian ambiance in the area of Montmartre.  It is here in Montmartre, in the 18th arrondissement of Paris that I am drawn to over and over again.
At the highest point in Paris sits Sacre Couer Basilica, its domed spires  unashamedly slicing into the Parisian skyline. Slightly out of breath I walked to the summit that leads to the monument. The Basilica, in the early morning sun, gleamed with an invite to climb the 132 steps to the mount.
One of the many open air concerts at Sacre Couer

One of the many open air concerts at Sacre Couer

The Sacre Couer Basilica is a stunning vision to behold irregardless of how many times you have seen it in the past. Among the most beautiful basilica’s in all of Europe.  Built in the Romano Byzantine style, its pointed domes glistening radiant sunlight in the open air playing on the calcite stone. The front of the basilica facing Paris is nobly adorned with ornate statues of Joan of Arc and King Saint Louis. Standing vigilant in their task of safeguarding the sprawling city below.

 Rounding the Rue du Cardinal Guilbert you embrace the cobbled square of Place du Tertre. Busy and bustling with creative energy. Lining the square you will find colorful shops, cafes, painters and various artisans unveiling their latest
But the true heart of Montmartre lies just beyond the square in the side streets and alleyways that ramble  and meander giving you a feel of old Paris. An exaltation, perhaps a reverence of how Parisian life was in the time of the Impressionist.   It is not hard to imagine how easily Van Gogh, Monet, Renior, Cezanne and so many other dreamers were so easily inspired by the ambiance of Montmartre. Perhaps you will find your inspiration here as well. – ZT
“Art is to console those who are broken by life.”  -Vincent Van Gogh.

Do they have Hurricanes in Holland?


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I have often pondered this question on numerous occasions while exiting the cafes in Amsterdam on many rain filled, windy nights. As a product of  the eastern coast US I have encountered hazardous experiences with hurricanes more times than I care to remember. I recall while away at college my roommates and I romping around in tempest tossed gales of torrential rain. Downed power lines and trees scattered like toothpicks in places they were never expected to be. Of course in college we did not have the brains of a tape worm. That’s the reason we were in college in the first place. To learn some sense.
In Amsterdam the winds can be extremely strong. Often times mixed with horizonIMG_3281tal rain and ice, a predicament certainly not for the feint of heart while riding a bike. Its’ not for nothing the Netherlands is know as one of the leading  wind energy countries of the world. A true testament to the famous windmills we have all come to recognize as iconic symbols of Holland.
Anyway I did some research on the question at hand regarding hurricanes in the Netherlands. This is what i found: Per the Saffir-Simpson Hurricane classification scale, gale force winds need to be at least 94 mph to be in the category as a hurricane. And accompanied by relentless torrential rain. The past weekend’s storm measured in at 136 kilometers per hour. Which definitely exceeds the requisite for hurricane force winds. Conclusion; We do have hurricanes in the Netherlands. The Dutch just don’t call them hurricanes. They prefer to use a more genteel word. Storms.

 In the dog days of July when most of the world is slurping down umbrella cocktails at the beach we had such an occurrence in Amsterdam. Yes in July! But dont take my word for it. Check out the photos I have submitted  for your appreciation. IMG_3279

And to think I was biking in this stuff.  I guess I have not learned much from my college days.-ZT


What’s all the fuss about Oslo?


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Ok, Ok, lets be real.The place is sleek,cool and sophisticated with stunning views of fjords
right in the heart of Oslo central!

You can actually walk fifteen minutes from Oslo Central Station and dip your toe into the Oslofjord. The country is a natural wonderland with endless forest, rivers, lakes, wild nature and opulent fjords. And its citizens have a long established tradition of

The Oslo tiger welcomes visitors at Oslo Central Station.

The Oslo tiger welcomes visitors at Oslo Central Station.

preserving the ecosystems and wild nature through sweeping environmental policy to protect its generous gifts. Standing at the mouth of Oslofjord the seamless panorama is overwhelming.  As if this breath taking view isn’t amazing enough the architecture is streamlined in the style of Neo Scandinavian design. Very linear and contemporary.

Norwegians  have come a long way from the pillage and plunder days of the Viking era. Today’s residents are cool and relaxed with a no hurry attitude. In fact some are so cool they are downright cold! Wait a minute.. everyone in the country is cold! You would be too if you lived next to a fjord!

Norwegians boast a strong penchant for the arts and theater. Coupled with a robust economy and practically zero crime makes Oslo the ideal place to whittle away a lifetime. The country is also cash rich due to the discovery of oil in the 70’s and 80’s. Which you get a chuncky piece of if you are lucky enough to have a Norwegian birth certificate.

Oslo Opera house, completed in 2007 is a superlative must see while visiting this secluded country.

Oslo Opera house, completed in 2007 is a superlative must see while visiting this secluded country.

Everything is modern, new and clean as a whistle. The place also reeks of money! In fact, there is so much money in Oslo it spills out into the streets as they have heated sidewalks! IMG_2973
Can you imagine if word got out to the homeless on 42nd street?!
So what’s the downside to living in wonderland? The Obvious. It gets plenty cold in the land of fjords. Temperatures can get into the -20 Celsuis range. After all, the place is next to the north pole. And its nearest neighbor is Santa Claus!
Also there is a nasty rumor going around that Oslo is quite an expensive city to visit. Short answer. Yes, it is!  A Norwegian friend of mine once told me that Oslo has gotten so expensive in recent years the average Norwegian can’t afford to go out for a decent night on the town. But then, she is a street performer. What does IMG_2949she know.  However, there is plenty of upside to living in Oslo. If you can afford the 10 euro
beers and 15 euro cocktails.-ZT

Maastricht, a hidden gem in the south of Holland


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The Dutch have a well kept secret. And it goes by the name Maastricht.

 Bordering Belgium, resting at the very bottom of Holland but utmost in the hearts of every Nederlander, this jewel of a city is unequivocally among the top must see destinations in the Netherlands.  Maastricht proper boast a vibe  that is different from Holland North . Eccentric in design yet whimsical by nature. The people too pride themselves on their unique  lineage in this region known as Limburg  due to its definitive Belgian influence. Even the dialect is a bit softer as my ear for the Dutch language was trained in Amsterdam. In a country so small it’s diversity is a wonderment perhaps even the dutch take for granted.

Maastricht stands alone in it’s glory. It does not attempt to compete with its larger more well know brethren cities to the north. It is complete and sIMG_1077 (2)ecure in its own identity and uniqueness, blending the cultures of Belgium and the Netherlands.

In Maastricht you are encouraged  to stroll the old streets and delight in the delirium of authentic Dutch charm thought to have long ago abated.
The cleverly alined houses bunched together along the Maas river invites you to traverse the bridge and experience the coziness of a southern Dutch village the way it was meant to be. The center of  the fanciful hamlet transforms fluidly into openness giving way to a peacefulness almost tranquilizing. A place of arresting beauty, resonating with ethereal charm, awash in the residuum of a bygone era. The bridge at the Mass river is said to be one of the oldest in Europe. The Romans  began building it 2000 years ago. It was left there for all to cross. Now is the time to treat yourself to Maastricht.~ZT

Flight MH17- Turning outrage into a Firestorm




It’s been a very difficult time the past few days in the Netherlands. Just last week there  was immense celebration and euphoria coming off the success of the Dutch National team’s performance in the World Cup. Now, we are experiencing a complete pivot of emotion due to the cowardly attack on flight MH17. This despicable and shameful act of shooting down a passenger plane filled with innocent people. Three of which were infants.

To say we are outraged does not begin to reflect how we feel. But we, and I mean “we” as a collective world community need to go beyond our feelings of mutual outrage. We must pull together in a concerted effort and act. We need to collectively galvanize our outrage into action against Putin and his criminal regime. Let them know that no matter how cowardly, heinous, and vile their terrorist acts are the peaceful communities of the world will never succumb to their will. And this act only solidifies the resolve of peaceful people of all nations.

When it comes to air travel, the peaceful nations of the world share a bond. A common thread of decency. A reciprocal agreement, a sacred trust that we signed onto to secure safe passage for one another and our families. It is this sacred trust that allows us to travel safely and freely from country to country without the fear of cowardly acts such as this incident.

The international community should bring charges against those responsible with this crime and if found guilty, isolate these criminals within the self imposed prisons of their own making. We must let them know that there are a thousand lights in the forest, burning brightly and together they, we, create a firestorm with such an intense flame it will burn the paws off any bear in it’s path. You will never break us.

Our hearts are with the families at this difficult time.~ZT

Mucking about in Notting Hill!..or Where the hell is Hugh Grant?!


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Ahhh…Saturday morning, the sun is shinning, not a cloud in the sky and nary a football hooligan in sight. What a great day to be in London! As the occasion calls for I suppose I should make like a proper English chap, put on my Windsor cap and skip over to Kensington.  I’m catching the tube to Notting Hill for a bit of slacking off, British style! You  are welcome to join me if you like. If you fancy walking that is!

Just outside of London proper, fifteen minutes by the underground, the world’s oldest underground rail system, is the quaint area in west London know as Notting Hill. I boarded the tube at King’s Cross station and exited at Notting Hill gate. The early morning rain had given way to golden strands of sunlight, a  slight breeze but weak by London standards. A perfect day to muck around in Knotting Hill. I began my requiescence  with a quiet stroll down Pembridge road.  The houses were awash in the brightest pastel colors. As if Van Gogh used his color palate to splash each house with elaborate hues of brilliance. Then though better of himself  and applied a different palate on the next street. Completely out of character for a borough of London. But that is the curious charm of Notting Hill. Diffused of the grit and bite of the central area, it is flirtatiously unapologetic for it’s unabashed liberalism. Yet still retaining that essential Anglo ambiance.


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Walking down Pembridge, around the next corner I came to Ladbroke Square. Bright colors give way to dusky browns and variant shades of umber colored houses, uniquely stylized from the Victorian era. Adjacent are the gardens of Ladbroke which is used as an ideal picnic spot by locals. Sandwiched in between two rustic looking antique shops was a quaint little book store. I half-heartedly expected Hugh Grant to emerge at any moment!  Just ahead of me the crowds thickened as a flurry of activity began to create quite a stir.

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At the intersection I saw what all the hubbub was about as I approached the infamous Portobello Road Market. There were so many people moving every which way in what can only be described as orderly pandemonium. The ruckus ensued throughout the market as each shopper searched for that special item to fill their sack. The Notting Hill market is one of west London’s great attractions. Vendors line the street selling wares ranging from antiques, trendy souvenirs, vintage clothing, dusty old books and a few relics from England’s illustrious past.  You may even find an ancient English artifact tucked away in a dusky corner ala Indiana Jones. I spied a vintage rugby ball that was quite worn and looked as though it had seem it’s share of games. After a trite bit of haggling I quickly snapped it up from the vendor and stowed it in my bag.


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Just beyond the market the area presents a more affable surrounding. The combination of posh restaurants, ultra chic shops and earthy local pubs give the streets sort of a cool vitality. There is usually a street band or two playing for coins adding a festive feel to the atmosphere. All this and more for the price of a tube fare!England 2012 086

After a day of haggling with street vendors and some fiesty street dancing I felt like getting lost in one of those old book shops!

Still no sign of Hugh Grant!-ZT






London along the Thames!


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Farther afield along the Thames embankment is the world renown Tate Modern Museum which houses some of the finest artwork in the world. You  may want to stop here and treat yourself to the likes of Picasso, Dali, Monet, Pollock and more. As well a diverse collection of British artist from the past century. There is a new Henri Matisse exhibit beginning April through September 2014 which is well worth a look over.
the south tower of St Paul's Cathedral

the south tower of St Paul’s Cathedral

Directly across the river from the Tate, past Queen Victoria street is St Paul’s Cathedral. The church was founded in 604 AD. Now that’s old! Although it’s current facade, the Baroque design construct dates back a mere 300 years to the 17th century. For a few pounds you are free to test you fate at climbing to the dome for divine views of London. But be fair warned you will  have to be in shape to conquer the 376 steps to the top. The winding stairs  are narrow and can only accommodate one person at a time and certainly not for the skittish as often there is a hole in the stairway big enough to see through. After all, they were built in the 600’s AD. So do not attempt if you  cannot make it back down because there is no ambulance at the top of the dome!
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The stunning view from atop St Paul’s Cathedral

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The Tower Bridge

Passing over Southwark Bridge is the infamous Tower Bridge to the right. Often confused as the London Bridge, yet it is quite young by London standards as it was constructed at the end  of the 19th century. A stones throw to the left is the imposing Tower of London. A thousand years old, this was the historic castle of the Kings and Queens of England. As well as prison to Elizabeth l. The castle creates a ripple in time giving you a window into civilization in Medieval England. This and more is all approachable while walking the Thames.
Tower of London

Tower of London

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Palace guards on duty outside the Tower of London

After a couple of hours of trekking the Thames it was now time to replenish my energies. If bangers and mash, or fish and chips is not your cup of tea there are plenty of restaurants  around central London to quell those  annoying hunger pangs. Today I was in the mood for pizza and I heard that Franco Manca had a new restaurant on Lordship lane.  Franco Manca is renown for it’s gourmet pizza using slow rising pizza dough featuring wild boar and other exotic beasts! Ahhh..I mean meats! Londoners in the know site it as the best pizza in London. I can personally attest to this after a superb course of the wild boar pizza washed down by a local craft brew. Feeling replenished I was off to explore what else is new and old in London!

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Next entry: Mucking about in Notting Hill!..or Where the hell is Hugh Grant?!

Stomping in LondonTown! – Whats up?!


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The mesmerizing view of London’s skyline

A lot of people don’t like London. For the life of me I cant figure out what their reasoning is. It is a city I have visited many times and will always be a special place that I will return to over and over again. Aside from the fact that it is the most visited city in the world, the truth is, it’s extremely hard to have a bad time in London because it never seems to disappoint. Unequivocally, London is one of the top three cities on the planet and one of the few that is not overrated.

London Gardens

London Gardens

Despite some of the more prurient references afloat regarding England’s capitol, London beams with character and radiates with other worldly charm exclusive only to this legendary city. It has a splash of naughtiness and is forever finding ways to shake things up and make itself more interesting. There are two characteristics that set London apart form other large metroplexes. First, no matter how many times you visit you will always discover something new. Second, you can count on finding something old. Very old.




                                                    A blend of what’s new mixed with what’s old.England 2012 081 (2)


The first thing new thing you will notice when arriving at Heathrow Airport is the newly renovated Terminal 2.  T2 is completely redone to the tune of 2.6 billion pounds! Ouch! The terminal houses 63 shops and restaurants sweeping panoramic views overtly —glass windows. Describes as the  worlds first green airport  because it operates on solar panels, LED and natural lighting. It is also the home of a new sculpture entitled “Slipstream” by artist Richard Wilson. An homage to aviation and the worlds longest continuous artist sculpture. It is a rare thing indeed  that an airport is a tourist attraction in itself. Brilliant!


Bird's eye view of the River Thames

Bird’s eye view of the River Thames

My first order of business when I come to London is to stroll the embankment along the Thames. It’s one on the things I enjoy most about the city. Whether you have done it once or a thousand times it’s always a thrill. Walking east you receive specular views of the House of Parliament and  London’s iconic time clock referred to affectionately as Big Ben. Just across the river I came upon the fantastic sight of the London eye. For a mere 18 pounds you can indulge yourself with views from atop Europe’s largest Ferris wheel which features as the Brits would say “eye popping” views of London.

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Next Post: More of what new and old from London!-ZT

The old man…


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IMG_20140521_091534019_HDRThe old man frequently had too much to drink. But I was happy to indulge him for he was the most absolute gentleman. His eyes widened as he recounted to me fantastic stories of World War II when he was a child. Stories of strife, courage, raw with the full range of human insouciance and indifference. Accounts told to  me first hand from someone who actually was there and lived to tell about it.  I eagerly listened, giving my full attention. Salivating at every morsel he uttered. His stories  seemed more like fables or fairy tales rather than historical events and personal accounts of someone’s life.

I ordered another round of beers.

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It  occurred to me that those of his generation who lived through that turbulent time would not be around too much longer to retell these experiences. Most people outside of the Netherlands are familiar with the story of  gentle Anne Frank and the horrendous conditions under which she lived. And ultimately died. But living in Amsterdam you come to understand that there were so many Anne Franks. Millions of them with their own stories of human tragedy and cruelty. Not only in the Netherlands but all across Europe.  I was privy to receive these stories and deeply honored the old man entrusted me with them. This was the gift he gave to me for the price of a beer.  And for that I am eternally grateful. It is a debt I can never repay.~ZT, From My Amsterdam


Amsterdam Bridges


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Shit happens here too.
It’s not all wine and roses.
I was riding my bike over the bridge that crosses the Amstel river on one of those beautifully cold, wet, rainy days. You know, one of those wonderfully nasty days when the wind is so strong its blowing you backward and the rain is coming at you sideways so there is absolutely no place you can hide except maybe say…hell. This kind of weather even the most hardened Dutchie can tell you is certainly not for the faint of heart.  But I made peace my with  the weather a long time ago as it is part of the deal for living  in Amsterdam. So onward I rode backwards!!
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Suddenly a motor scooter came speeding by from a side  street heading straight towards me. I knew that in this rain it was going to be difficult to avoid. I only had a split second to react.
So I dumped my bike and
took a spill right at the end of the bridge. I was the lucky one. I was ok.The guy riding in back of me was not. From my vantage point on the ground I watched the scooter  careen head on into the elderly man resulting in a  obscenely loud crash.

New Amsterdam 023 (2)I jumped up and quickly rushed over to the scene of the accident. The driver on the scooter began to get up as well and she seemed to be alright. However, the older gent was laid out  like a rag doll in the rain. He laid there motionless on the bridge, blood gushing from his forehead.

The scooter-girl and I began administering aid to the man, I took off my
scarf, wiped away the blood and pressed it firmly against the gash above
his right eye. The girl was on her cell phone with the ambulance while
simultaneously placing her scarf under his head. All the while we kept asking, are you ok? Are you ok? He started to move his
head from side to side. The scooter-girl and I let out a deep sigh of relief. We sat there, the three of us waiting for the
ambulance. In the rain. We kept talking to the man and he began to regain consciousness. We exchanged names, forced smiles
and waited. On the bridge. In the rain.
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The Ambulance finally arrived and took Jost, I learned he was called,  to the hospital. Explaining that he suffered from a concussion but he should be fine. We all said tot zien, and left.
A few days later I got a call from Jost. He said that he had contacted Anne, the scooter-girl and wanted to get together with us to celebrate that the rain had stopped.  So there we were, a patchwork of characters three days later at a quiet little cafe sharing beers. Somewhere near a bridge on a canal.
The bridges in Amsterdam support the canal system and connect the streets, boulevards and passageways. But there are other more subtle bridges being constructed between the people of the city every day.  New relationships being forged  between strangers in a cafe. Clandestine meetings among would be lovers.  People of diverse backgrounds and nationalities of every stripe finding common ground to travel by. Profound and deep relationships develop beyond the cheap narrative  and popular stereotype being built daily in this amazing town. It is indeed something to celebrate.
Three people were randomly slung together and shared a fortuitous experience at a bridge on an awful day in the Amsterdam rain. On occasion the three of us still get together for beers. Despite the rain.
A friend of mine once mused that people are so busy building towers that they have little time to build bridges. Here in Amsterdam you will find your bridge.~ZT

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